First, ensure that pot-grown plants are thoroughly moist before planting. If necessary, immerse the pot in a bucket of water until it is adequately moist; it is most difficult to introduce water to a dry root ball once planted. Excavate the prepared site to an adequate depth and incorporate plenty of peat, composted bark or garden compost with the soil in the vicinity of the planting hole. Plastic pots or containers must be carefully removed or cut away before planting. After positioning the plant, with the top of the root ball on the surface of the growing compost no more than iin(2.5cm) below the general soil level, top up with fine soil, peat or composted bark and firm very thoroughly with the full weight of the bodv behind the heel. Slight 'basin' planting (leaving a shallow depression in which water can collect) is desirable in dry areas, and against walls where rain often has difficulty in penetrating. Dryness in borders against walls is something to keep in mind at all times. Lightly rake in a top-dressing of good compound fertiliser-rose fertiliser containing magnesium is as excellent for shrubs and climbers as it is for roses and should be applied as recommended for the last-mentioned. Subsequent attention to watering is vital, particularly in the first and second springs following planting, and during all periods of drought (particularly in spring) for several years thereafter. In such circumstances, several bucketfuls of water per plant may be necessary; climbers and wall shrubs on south- and east-facing walls are particularly at risk in drought conditions. However, mulching material, such as pulverized bark fibre, straw, leaves, coarse peat or chopped bracken, well-rotted farmyard manure or a mixture of these is an ideal means of conserving moisture and maintaining a cool root ran in hot weather. Do not pile heavy mulches,B particularly manure, against stems and trunks; leave a small gap, otherwijB rots and fungal troubles may occur on stems near ground level. NowyB can rest until growth starts, with the training of the plants against wai, I trellis or pergola the next move to consider (see pruning chapter, p. 311). PROTECTING TENDER PLANTS In areas where severe frosts and cokfl penetrating winds are experienced some winter protection may be necefl sary, particularly for newly planted half-hardy wall shrubs and climbers. 1цЯ most districts, however, severe winter weather is rarely encountered befonfH the turn of the year, and the longer the covering is delayed the more ж hardened the new plant will become to local conditions. Half-hardy subjects I may be planted from pots in the late spring or, if available, in the summer I months, but ideally no later than September, in order that they make some I root growth and at least partially establish themselves before the onset оД winter. This applies to such plants as Abutilon, Ceanothus, Cestrum and I Myrtus, which should be afforded winter protection about Christmas time, using suitable porous material, which allows air to circulate, but stilH protects from hard frosts and cold winds.